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diff --git a/_layouts/nav.html b/_layouts/nav.html index 8fdb1fc..57cabb9 100644 --- a/_layouts/nav.html +++ b/_layouts/nav.html @@ -5,6 +5,7 @@ layout: master <a href="/">Home</a> / <a href="/posts/">Blog</a> / <a href="/projects.html">Projects</a> / + <a href="/food/">Food</a> / <a href="/talks.html">Talks</a> </nav> {{ content }} diff --git a/food/index.md b/food/index.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..295c7b4 --- /dev/null +++ b/food/index.md @@ -0,0 +1,41 @@ +--- +title: Food & Cooking +--- + +# Food & Cooking + +One of my hobbies is cooking. I've collected some techniques and recipes that I +find useful to refer to, along with some other resources that are specific to +my kitchen. + +## Recipes + +* [Apple Butter](recipes/apple-butter.html) +* [Cheese and Nut Loaf](recipes/cheese-and-nut-loaf.html) + +## Resources + +* [My tare list](tare.html) +* [The Big List of Temperatures](temps.html) + +## Techniques + +### Cooking apples without them getting mushy + +This is a technique I learned from [Kenji][pectin]. When pectin reaches 183ºF, +it begins to break down, resulting in mush. However, there are two things that +can be done to prevent this from happening. First, you can provide an acidic +environment to strengthen the pectin, which is why you often see lemon juice in +apple pie filling recipes. + +Alternately, if pectin is held between 140ºF and 160ºF for about 10 minutes, an +enzyme present in the apples will convert the pectin to a heat stable form. This +can be achieved in various ways, I typically use a sous-vide setup for about an +hour. + +[pectin]: https://sweets.seriouseats.com/2011/10/the-food-labs-apple-pie-part-2-how-to-make-perfect-apple-pie-filling.html + +### Pasteurizing Eggs + +Eggs can be made safe to eat raw by holding at 135ºF for two hours. Applications +include dressings, cookie dough, ... diff --git a/food/recipes/apple-butter.md b/food/recipes/apple-butter.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9b1ad7f --- /dev/null +++ b/food/recipes/apple-butter.md @@ -0,0 +1,66 @@ +--- +title: Apple Butter +--- + +# Apple Butter + +This recipe is from the [National Center for Home Food Preservation][nchfp], and +works well with Jonathan, Winesap, Stayman, Golden Delicious, or MacIntosh +apples. + +## Ingredients + +* 8 lb apples +* 2 c apple cider +* 2 c vinegar +* 2 1/4 c white sugar +* 2 1/4 c packed brown sugar +* 2 tbsp ground cinnamon +* 1 tbsp ground cloves + +## Procedure + +Wash, remove stems, quarter and core fruit. + +Cook slowly in cider and vinegar until soft. + +Press fruit through a colander, food mill, or strainer. + +Cook fruit pulp with sugar and spices, stirring frequently. To test for +doneness, remove a spoonful and hold it away from steam for 2 minutes. It is +done if the butter remains mounded on the spoon. Another way to determine when +the butter is cooked adequately is to spoon a small quantity onto a plate. When +a rim of liquid does not separate around the edge of the butter, it is ready for +canning. + +Fill hot into sterile half-pint or pint jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Quart +jars need not be presterilized. Adjust lids and process according to the table +below. + +<table> + <thead> + <tr> + <th>Style of Pack</th> + <th>0-1000 ft</th> + <th>1001-6000 ft</th> + <th>Above 6000 ft</th> + </tr> + </thead> + <tbody> + <tr> + <td>Hot pack, half pints or pints</td> + <td>5 mins</td> + <td>10 mins</td> + <td>15 mins</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Hot pack, quarts</td> + <td>10 mins</td> + <td>15 mins</td> + <td>20 mins</td> + </tr> + </tbody> + <caption>Recommended process times</caption> +</table> + +[nchfp]: https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/can_02/apple_butter.html diff --git a/food/recipes/cheese-and-nut-loaf.md b/food/recipes/cheese-and-nut-loaf.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..768e094 --- /dev/null +++ b/food/recipes/cheese-and-nut-loaf.md @@ -0,0 +1,42 @@ +--- +title: Cheese and Nut Loaf +--- + +# Cheese and Nut Loaf + +## Ingredients + +* 1 1/2 c cooked brown rice +* 200 g walnuts +* 75 g cashews +* 1 medium yellow onion finely diced +* 2 tbsp butter +* salt +* 2 cloves garlic minced +* 60 g shiitake mushrooms chopped +* 60 g baby bella mushrooms chopped +* 2 tbsp parsley chopped +* 1/2 tsp dried thyme +* 1 tsp dried marjoram +* 1/2 tsp dried sage +* 4 eggs beaten +* 1 c cottage cheese +* 12 oz cheese (a variety such as Gruyere, cheddar, muenster, Fontina, jack) grated +* Pepper + +## Procedure + +Roast the nuts in the oven for 5-7 minutes, then chop them finely. + +Cook the onion in the butter over moderate heat until it is translucent, then +season with salt and add the garlic, chopped mushrooms, and herbs. Cook until +the liquid released by the mushrooms has been reduced. + +In a large bowl, combine the mixture with the rice, nuts, eggs, cottage cheese, +and grated cheese. Season to taste with freshly ground black pepper and +additional salt, if needed. + +Lightly butter a loaf pan, then line it with buttered waxed paper or parchment +paper. Fill the pan and bake the loaf at 375F until the top is golden and +rounded, about 1 to 1 1/4 hours. The loaf should be firm when you give the pan a +gentle shake. Let rest for 10 minutes before turning out. diff --git a/food/tare.md b/food/tare.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3cc3bf3 --- /dev/null +++ b/food/tare.md @@ -0,0 +1,58 @@ +--- +title: Ben's Tare List +--- + +# Tare List + +I like to cook with a scale. Normally, to weigh out an amount, I place an empty +vessel on the scale, zero the scale, and then add the thing I want to weigh. But +sometimes I want to know how much of an ingredient or mixture is in a container +already, like when I want to split a batter in half for two pans or something. + +To avoid the situation of having a mixture in a container without an +appropriately-zeroed scale, I have preemptively collected the masses of all the +cooking vessels I regularly use. + +## Aluminum Bowls + +- #1 (largest) 372g +- #2 260g +- #3 215g +- #4 198g +- #5 128g +- #6 (smallest) 79g + +## Lettuce Spinner + +- Basket 172g +- Bowl 421g + +## Glass Bowls + +- Small Pyrex 166g + +## Colanders + +- Green 83g +- Metal 424g +- Yellow 163g + +## Measuring Containers + +- Cuisinart 500mL 100g +- OXO 500mL 118g +- Pyrex 2c 589g +- Pyrex 1L 797g + +## Pots and Pans + +- 10" skillet 543g +- 8" skillet 319g +- Glass pot 857g +- Grill pan 1099g +- Wok 1209g +- Pressure cooker 850g + +## Storage Containers + +- Teddy Peanut Butter Jar 253g diff --git a/food/temps.md b/food/temps.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7d9a012 --- /dev/null +++ b/food/temps.md @@ -0,0 +1,582 @@ +--- +title: The Big List of Temperatures +--- + +# The Big List of Temperatures + +All temperatures listed in degrees Fahrenheit. Sorry, deal with it. + +Mostly collected from J. Kenji López-Alt's <em>The Food Lab</em> and Harold +McGee's <em>On Food and Cooking</em>. Please submit additions or corrections to +<temperatures@benburwell.com>. + +<table> + <thead> + <tr> + <th>Temperature</th> + <th>Effect</th> + </tr> + </thead> + <tbody> + <tr> + <td>3000</td> + <td>Gas burns</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>2000</td> + <td>Coals burn, electric cooking elements glow</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>400</td> + <td>At roasting temperatures at or above, meat surface browns quickly but high moisture loss and uneven interior temperature</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>400</td> + <td>Soufflés rise fastest above</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>350</td> + <td>A moderate roasting temperature offering a compromise between high-temperature browning and low-temperature evenness</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>325-350</td> + <td>Soufflés rise modestly</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>300-350</td> + <td>Typical shallow or deep frying temperature for meat</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>280</td> + <td>Ultra High Temperature cream pasteurization in 2 seconds, usually not sterile so must be refrigerated</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>265-300</td> + <td>Ultra High Temperature milk pasteurization, takes 1-3 seconds. Sterile, can be stored for months without refrigeration.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>250</td> + <td>Milk solids in butter begin to brown and then burn. Hazel/black butter</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>250</td> + <td>Ideal pan temperature for fried eggs</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>250</td> + <td>Water boils in a pressure cooker</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>250</td> + <td>At roasting temperatures at or below, escaping moisture helps cool meat surface resuling in even temperature and doneness with little browning</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>240-250</td> + <td>250 Soft-ball candy stage</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>230-250</td> + <td>Milk sterilizes in 8-30 minutes, develops a strong flavor, can be stored indefinitely at room temperature.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>212</td> + <td>Water boils at sea level</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>203</td> + <td>Water boils in Denver</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>200</td> + <td>Common oven tempterature for meringues</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>200</td> + <td>Meat fibers easily separate from each other, collagen dissolves rapidly</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>200</td> + <td>Approximate temperature of smoke</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>200</td> + <td>Fibers in fish begin to disintegrate</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>194</td> + <td>Water boils at 10,000 feet elevation</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>185</td> + <td>Cream for butter is pasteurized, resulting in a custardy, cooked aroma</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>185</td> + <td>Temperature required to eliminate some viruses present in seafood</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>180-190</td> + <td>Cooking temperature for hard-cooked eggs</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>180</td> + <td>Parmesan and pecorino melt</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>180</td> + <td>Ovalbumin (54% of total albumin protein) sets in egg whites</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>180</td> + <td>Egg whites become firm</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>180</td> + <td>Crème Anglaise thickens to coat a spoon</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>180</td> + <td>Actin (meat fiber protein) denatures and coagulates</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>175</td> + <td>Starch added to eggs will absorb water at or above and slow protein binding, preventing curdling</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>172</td> + <td>Lactoglobulin, a whey protein, denatures</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>171</td> + <td>Common modern milk pasteurization temperature</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>170</td> + <td>Milk develops "cooked" flavor (vanilla, almond, sulfer)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>170</td> + <td>Lysozyme (3.5% of total albumin protein) sets in egg whites</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>170</td> + <td>Meat: USDA well</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>170</td> + <td>All fiber-weakening enzymes in fish have been denatured and inactivated</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>165</td> + <td>Poultry thigh meat should be cooked to at least in order to fully break down connective tissue</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>165</td> + <td>Cream > 20% fat pasteurizes after 30 minutes</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>165</td> + <td>Whole eggs (yolks + whites mixed together) set</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>162</td> + <td>Milk pasteurizes in 15 seconds</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>160-165</td> + <td>Cooking temperature for Middle Eastern long-cooked eggs (6-18 hours)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>160</td> + <td>Some whey proteins begin to denature</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>160</td> + <td>Eggs free from salmonella after 1 minute</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>160</td> + <td>Collagen dissolves into gelatin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>160</td> + <td>Myoglobin mostly denatured and coagulated</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>160</td> + <td>Meat becomes stiff, is gray/brown, has lost most moisture</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>160</td> + <td>Cooking temperature for emulsified sausages so that interior water does not boil, burst, and leak moisture</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>160</td> + <td>Fish has become stiff and dry</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>158</td> + <td>Egg yolk proteins set</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>155</td> + <td>Cream <= 20% fat pasteurizes after 30 minutes</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>155</td> + <td>E. coli die</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>155</td> + <td>Meat: well (USDA medium)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>155</td> + <td>Poultry breast meat becomes dry and tough when heated above</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>150</td> + <td>Cheddar- and Swiss-style cheeses melt</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>150</td> + <td>Egg whites become a tender solid</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>150</td> + <td>Egg yolk proteins begin to thicken</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>150</td> + <td>Myoglobin continues to denature, turning meat from pink to brown or gray</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>150</td> + <td>Refrigerated cooked meat safe to eat after being reheated</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>150</td> + <td>Myocommata sheets in fish dissolve into gelatin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>145</td> + <td>Milk pasteurizes in 30-35 minutes</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>145</td> + <td>Egg whites begin to thicken</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>145-155</td> + <td>Meat: medium well (USDA medium rare)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>140-160</td> + <td>Meat tenderizing enzymes extracted from plants are most active</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>140-150</td> + <td>Collagen denatures and meats shrink, expel juices, and become chewier</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>140</td> + <td>Ovotransferrin (12% of total albumin protein) sets in egg whites</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>140</td> + <td>Eggs free from salmonella after 5 minutes</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>140</td> + <td>Eggs at or above will give off hydrogen sulfide, which produces the distinct eggy smell</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>140</td> + <td>Myoglobin begins to denature, meats start to lose deep red</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>140</td> + <td>Protein-bound water flows from meat cells under collagen pressure</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>140</td> + <td>Meat starts to shrink</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>140</td> + <td>Temperature required for eliminating bacteria and parasites in seafood</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>140</td> + <td>Fish becomes dry</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>137</td> + <td>Trichinosis-causing trichina spiralis worms die</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>135-145</td> + <td>Meat: medium (USDA rare)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>130-180</td> + <td>Typical meat temperature during hot smoking</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>130-140</td> + <td>Pasteurization temperature for eggs</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>130-140</td> + <td>Most fish are firm but still moist</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>130</td> + <td>Whey is expelled from curd particles in cheesemaking</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>130</td> + <td>Soft cheeses melt</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>130-135</td> + <td>Meat: medium rare</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>130</td> + <td>Myosin, meat fiber protein, has coagulated</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>130</td> + <td>Collagen sheaths in meat begin to weaken</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>130</td> + <td>Fiber-weakening enzymes in fish have denatured</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>130</td> + <td>Fish becomes flaky as muscle sheets in begin to separate</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>122</td> + <td>Cathespins, enzymes which break down contractive filaments in meat and dissolve collagen into gelatin, denature and lose effectiveness at or above, but are most active just under</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>120-130</td> + <td>Meat: rare</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>120-130</td> + <td>Collagen in fish disolves into gelatin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>120</td> + <td>Ideal meat carving and serving temperature</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>120</td> + <td>Meat develops a white opacity as myosin denatures and begins to coagulate</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>120</td> + <td>Myosin in fish has coagulated</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>110</td> + <td>Meat: bleu</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>110</td> + <td>Fish starts to shrink, becomes firmer and opaque</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>106-114</td> + <td>Yogurt ferments in 2-5 hours</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>105</td> + <td>Calpains, enzymes which break down structural proteins in meat, denature and lose effectiveness at or above</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>104-113</td> + <td>Thermophilic lactobaccili and streptococci bacteria thrive, develop high levels of lactic acid</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>100</td> + <td>Protein-bound water begins to escape and accumulate within meat cells</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>100</td> + <td>Myosin in fish begins to denature</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>100</td> + <td>Collagen sheaths in fish shrink and rupture</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>100</td> + <td>Escape of protein-bound water in fish accelerates</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>90</td> + <td>Milkfat in cheese melts</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>86</td> + <td>Yogurt ferments in 6-12 hours</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>85</td> + <td>Butter melts</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>85</td> + <td>Mesophilic lactococci and Leuconostoc bateria thrive, develop moderate levels of lactic acid in 12-24 hours</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>80</td> + <td>Koumiss ferments in 2-5 hours (before cool aging)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>80</td> + <td>Milkfat in cheese begins to melt and sweat out of cheese</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>75</td> + <td>Propionibacter shermanii, the Swiss cheese hole-making bacteria, grows</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>72</td> + <td>Buttermilk ferments in 14-16 hours</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>72</td> + <td>Sour cream ferments in 16 hours</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>70</td> + <td>Fiber proteins in fish begin to unfold</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>70</td> + <td>Collagen in fish begins to weaken</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>70</td> + <td>Protein-bound water in fish begins to escape</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>70</td> + <td>Maximum emulsion temperature (before fat separates) for beef-based sausages</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>68</td> + <td>Crème fraîche ferments in 15-20 hours</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>68</td> + <td>Ropy milks ferment in 18 hours</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>68</td> + <td>Kefir ferments in 24 hours</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>60</td> + <td>100 Fermentation temperature range for sausages</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>60-80</td> + <td>Typical smoke box temperature for cold-smoking</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>60</td> + <td>Butter becomes spreadable</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>60</td> + <td>Maximum emulsion temperature (before fat separates) for pork-based sausages</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>55-60</td> + <td>Ideal cheese storage temperature</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>40-140</td> + <td>Salmonella multiply</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>40-45</td> + <td>Typical refrigerator temperature</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>40</td> + <td>Milk stored at or below will stay fresh for 10-18 days</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>40</td> + <td>Maximum storage temperature for meat confits</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>40</td> + <td>Margarine becomes spreadable</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>34-38</td> + <td>Dry-aging temperature for beef</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>32</td> + <td>Water freezes</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>32</td> + <td>Meats keep best at or below</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>32</td> + <td>Fish keeps twice as long on ice as at 40 (typical refrigeration temperature)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>20-22</td> + <td>Soft-serve ice cream is served, half of water content is liquid</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>8-10</td> + <td>Ideal serving temperature for ice cream</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>5</td> + <td>Trichinosis-causing trichina spiralis worms die after 20 days at or below</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>0</td> + <td>Ideal maximum storage temperature for ice cream</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>0</td> + <td>Ideal freezing temperature for meats</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>0</td> + <td>Typical minimum home freezer temperature</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>-10</td> + <td>Parasites in fish die after 7 days</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>-22</td> + <td>At or above, fish myoglobin oxidizes and turns brownish, red tuna must be stored below to preserve color</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>-31</td> + <td>Parasites in fish die after 15 hours</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>-320</td> + <td>Boiling point of nitrogen</td> + </tr> + </tbody> +</table> |